WillysTech
CJ-2A FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS [FAQ] FILE
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Friday May 25, 2007
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Credits and List Information
Introduction to this FAQ: The thanks for this information goes to the men and women with grease under their nails - those who have answered questions on the Willys Tech list and Classic Jeep Mailing List. We hope to keep this FAQ accurate and ongoing. If you see an answer that needs more clarification, or correction, please write to the editor. If you have a question that you would like answered and kept in this FAQ, submit your question with the answer to this editor [Richard
N. Meagley Sr.,
Thanks to David H. Hatch, n9zrt@arrl.net who created and maintained this page for many years, for bestowing the privilege of maintaining this page.
A very big thanks to Off-Road.com for allowing us permission to borrow questions and answers that have appeared on the "Classic Jeep Mailing List" [CJML] and include them here.
Visit Off-Road.com's Vintage Jeep page at...
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/classicjeep/
To subscribe to the Willys Tech list, go here...
To join the Classic Jeep Mailing List, go here...
To subscribe to the Classic Willys list, go here...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CWML
When credits are given, the following abbreviations will be used:
CJML = Classic Jeep Mailing List WT = Willys Tech Mailing List
Enjoy!
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ARE ARRANGED IN THESE CATEGORIES
It includes both stock restoration and conversion / modern upgrade information.
AXLES
BRAKES
BODY
CLUTCH
DRIVESHAFTS/U-JOINTS
ELECTRICAL
EMERGENCY BRAKE
ENGINE
EXHAUST
FRAME
FUEL
GAUGES
INTERIOR
SUSPENSION
STEERING
TIRES/RIMS
TOPS
TRANSMISSION/TRANSFER CASE
ANYTHING GOES
PARTS HOUSES
BOOKS
Return to Mighty Mo and Friends
AXLES - OVERVIEWS
QUESTION: What axles were used on my 2A?
ANSWER: According to Off-Road.com's Jeep facts, the front axle was a Dana/Spicer 25 with drum brakes. Early CJ-2As used the full-floating Dana/Spicer 23-2 while later models used the semi-floating Dana/Spicer 41. Off-Road.com has fine descriptions here...
Jeep Axle: Dana 25
Jeep Axle: Spicer 23-2
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/axle/s23.html
Jeep Axle: Dana 41
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/axle/d41.html
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AXLES - BROKEN KNUCKLES
QUESTION: Has anybody had the problem of breaking the knuckle to hub bolts on a Dana 25 - if so (or not) what size tire are you running? Also if you are heavily abusing a 25 with the stock bolts I'd be interested to know.
ANSWER: Studs will just keep you from having to hold the bolt head when tightening - desirable if you remove the spindle w/o disassembling the knuckle. I'm not sure of the grade of the studs, but arbitrarily changing to grade 8 is not necessarily a good thing. Grade 8 allows for a higher torque/preload but are less tolerant of shock load. As I recall, there are locknuts on the studs which suggests to me that the designers figured that under certain conditions the tension in the stud went to zero. If that load case is true, grade 8 bolts may fail quicker than the lower grade bolts/studs.
I think the above is true, regardless of what application you are changing. Personally, if I do not know the likely load cases or previous grade, I use grade 5.
I replaced mine with studs from Leon Rosser. The reason for the studs is that the original bolts tend to rip out of the knuckle when oversize tires or power steering is installed. I've heard it can also happen w/ stock equipment. If they do rip out you can still do the fix by drilling out the knuckle holes and then putting in the studs. I already had mine apart so I went ahead and drilled 'em and put in the studs. (Figured I'd try to avoid taking them apart later). The studs I got from Rosser came in MOPAR parts bags. If you're interested you could at least save shipping by getting them through a local dealer. The bags had both an old and new part number on them. The old PN = "930301 bolt" and the new PN = "J8124847" The install was pretty easy but I had access to drill press and arbor press which made short work of it. The only other thing that needed to be done is to grind off some of the stud heads in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions to get full turning radius back. I think I have a some pictures at home of the finished knuckle I could scan if you want.
I also used bolts instead of studs on my king pins. On the knuckle lube I also went to various lists for help. I got every thing from straight gear oil to regular bearing grease and concoctions of them both. I ended up just pumping the knuckle full of high quality, high temp bearing grease. I figure it should work best and not leak as easily.
The brake conversion article I have suggests changing pressing in new knuckle studs to a stronger variety, after I removed the knuckles last night I realized that mine had no studs but are threaded and used bolts instead!
Is there an advantage to studs over some grade 8 bolts? The thing I don't like about studs in these applications is that the threads get gunked and rusted and wind up breaking like half of my king pin studs. One other difference I noticed, my manual shows the kingpins being held in with bolts, I have studs (and plan to use bolts when it goes back together.
We have the stock L134 w/ 30x9.5-15's on our jeep and did snap a hub, and axle joint, one time. We found the cause to be that the bolts came loose. We tighten and lock-tight the bolts and haven't had a problem since. I also have a L-134 bored .080 milled head and ported intake and exhaust. A big boost in power, maybe 90HP, now, with 31x11.5 Super Swamper SX's, Lockers front and rear with power steering.
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AXLES - DANA 25 KNUCKLE STUD REPLACEMENT
QUESTION 1: What size hole should I drill?
ANSWER: 3/8" drill
QUESTION 2: Do I really have to use an Arbor Press or will these go in the way you can install wheel studs, by pulling them in with a nut?
ANSWER: Don't be afraid of this mod. It's really pretty simple and I'm pretty sure I could have done it w/ a 3/8 drill, a good 1/2 x6" bolt and a hammer (but the drill press and arbor press made it a piece of cake).
QUESTION 3: How much grinding on the 3:00 & 9:00 studs?
ANSWER: You're basically just removing the threads. The cast iron of the knuckle is not very hard so the studs should drive in pretty easy. Make sure to remove any excess casting material on the inside of the knuckle so the studs will be able to sit flush on the surface. I think the hole towards the front of the knuckle needs the most work for clearance and most of them needed no work at all. Try to get it right the first time so you don't have to remove them over & over. Once the studs are in, trial fit the knuckles on the axle to see how much grinding you'll need to get back steering radius. Use a die grinder to work on the 3 & 9 o'clock studs. Again I think it's the ones to the front of the knuckle that get the most work and it isn't too much but you may feel it is when you do it. (Sorry I had a late class last night and forgot to dig out my pics of this, I'll get 'em tonight though) Don't worry if you lose a little steering radius cause you have to give some up for the larger tires anyway.
Rather than use a nut to pull them in, I'd use a hammer and punch (or 1/2 x 6" bolt) and drive them in. Just keep them as straight as possible. Which brings us to the last tip. Have a rubber mallet handy when you go to put the spindles back on, the studs may needs light adjustments from the outside to get them back in line w/ the spindle holes. (Mine only need slight whacking w/ the rubber mallet) DON'T hit the studs w/ a regular hammer, it's just not worth it. Isn't it Merl who says "Never pound on the threaded end of anything"?
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AXLES - DANA 25 KNUCKLE LUBE GRADE
QUESTION: What lube should I use on my Dana 25 axle?
ANSWER: Manual suggests 90wt gear oil, I believe the consensus of the list on this awhile back was to use Mobil One lube grease. You won't have to worry about spots on your garage floor and water will no longer be an issue. You can spackle most of it in when you have the knuckle apart, the fill the rest of the way when assembled. Make sure you remove any burrs on the knuckle cup...they will tear the new felt gasket and cause fluid/grease leakage.
I use high temperature wheel bearing grease in my Dana 25 front knuckles. The property you are looking for in the lubricant is a stringy texture that sticks to metal even under high temperatures. I don't know of many people still using 80-90w gear oil in their front knuckles due mainly to leaks.
I still run 140W gear oil in mine. It lasts a year or so before enough of it leaks out to matter, but I have fairly new seals.
I think a lot of it depends on whether you have freewheeling hubs. With freewheeling hubs you can put in whatever's convenient since the knuckles don't turn that much.
I don't have freewheeling hubs, so I use gear oil because I have heard that you can get cavitations with grease. They say it all spins to the outside from centrifugal force and the CV fails from lack of lubrication.
There is clearly a good deal of disagreement on this among Jeep owners and mechanics. For a while I subscribed to the mil-veh list where the consensus seemed to favor 140W gear oil. But there certainly are many who use grease.
I was thinking that chassis grease or wheel bearing grease just wouldn't splash around in there as the designers wished. Thick stuff just would get slung to the outside and kingpin bearings, etc. would suffer. Something oily is necessary like SAE 90 or 140. Possibly track roller grease like is used in Caterpillar rollers might be thin enough. My GPW just has chassis grease in it and I am afraid of what I might find when I pull it apart. These things were designed in the days when nobody cared if they dripped a little. When they quit dripping it was time to fill them up again. I generally stick with the original manufactures recommendations, or something close if it is available.
When I rebuilt the front end of my wagon I used a 600W oil. It was used in Model A rear ends. It does flow and will drip but it won't get thrown out of the way. No problems in the winter either. Seemed to be the best of both worlds.
I use Molybond and have done so for many years. It's terrible stuff to handle because it sticks to anything and has such a high graphite content, but it won't leak out, won't get affected with water, won't "spin off" and stays consistent during heat.
I use Molybond in my steering boxes, steering knuckles, tie rods, bell cranks, drag links, and on all springs grease points. It's also great on things like the pivot points for the clutch mechanisms and brake pedal grease points. It *cannot* be used anywhere near brake linings.
When you wish to use it in your steering knuckles or steering boxes, I recommend that you just pump it in until it's full. Then during normal driving (and when you put the Jeep away) just hop under the axle or the hood and wipe away the excess with a rag soaked in kero. Eventually, it will stop pushing out the extra grease and you won't have to do it anymore.
QUESTION 2: STA-LUBE Brand Moly-Graph grease - designed for high temp applications and seems to have the same properties as "Bens magic lube." Ever hear of this stuff?
ANSWER 2: This is a very good grease, and the one I always use for general purpose greasing. I don't know if it is the equivalent of Ben's magic grease, but it is a darned good product. I use it or the lubriplate grease in the little tube you can buy at any parts store for about everything. I like the lubriplate better for places where a thinner high temperature grease is needed, such as the cam in a distributor, and I have a mixture of graphite and some lubriplate grease that I use for speedometer cables, but the Sta-Lube Molly grease is great for all utility anointings. Note: It can be really tough to wash out of clothes.
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AXLES - SHIMS
QUESTION[S]: Starting with the brakes and working inward, I've been tinkering with the front axle. The manual says the lower king pin bearing caps were installed with .058" shim packs to the bottom face of the king pin boss from the factory. These were nonexistent on my jeep, so I made a batch. The book also says any further adjustments are to be done with shims under the upper bearing caps, using these shims (also nonexistent; made them too): .003" .005".010" .030" The book then says to install one of each at the top only. So far so good. Am I understanding this correctly: Preloading the bearings means that it should take a minimum of 12 pounds pull to start the knuckle moving? Starting with all the shims in place gives the least amount of preload, and removing them makes it tighter? After taking everything apart there were no shims on either side, except .015 under the LHS upper bearing cap. The lower bearing cup on that side was absolutely hammered by the rollers in the bearing. What does the tool look like that removes/installs the cup? The side with no shims what gauges ever looks fine (not that I know what fine looks like inside a 4wd axle). If removing shims makes it tighter, shouldn't this side have been *awful* tight? Is it possible that the bearing cups have been rolled (or squeezed out) thinner? Is there a minimum thickness to these cups, or is that what all the shimming takes care of?
ANSWER: I would think that if you've got a model-25 axle it'd be the same as a 2A. My 2A manual says basically the same as yours, but it doesn't mention anything about the .058" shims from the factory. Mine also says that if using no shims at all still leaves the preload too loose, "a washer may be used under the top bearing cap to increase preload. When a washer is used, shims may have to be reinstalled to obtain proper adjustment." When I did my 2A there were existing shims on the bottom AND top on one side, but only on the top on the other.
None of it will work *unless* the cones and bearings are unmarked.
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AXLES - FLOATING AND SEMI-FLOATING
QUESTION: What is the difference between a floating and semi-floating
axle?
ANSWER: Axles are classified by the way in which the half-shafts and wheel hubs are supported -- half-shafts are the two longitudinal members of the axle which 'meet' at the differential.
In a semi-floating axle, each half-shaft is supported at its inner end by a bearing, which also carries the differential. At the outer end, there is a bearing between the shaft and the inside of the axle housing. This design is often used in passenger cars, as all the half-shafts have to sustain is the weight of the car.
In a three-quarter floating axle, there is also a hearing inside the axle housing which supports the diff, but the outer bearing is situated between the wheel hub and the axle housing, to support the weight of the vehicle when cornering. Here, the half-shaft is subjected to extra load only when cornering.
In a fully floating axle, there are two bearings between each hub and the axle housing, and these carry both the weight of the vehicle and the extra stress imposed during cornering.
The benefits...
The wheel supports the full weight of the vehicle on bearing races. You can pull the axle without jacking up the vehicle. Just unbolt the hub and pull it out. You can drive on them in front-wheel-drive with no axles in the rear. A semi-floater has only one set of bearings instead of two and the bearings only support *most* of the weight; the rest is supported by the axle itself. Because of this the axle must be way thicker. The bearings also don't lock the wheel in place, so if you break an axle the wheel can come right off. This is why semi-floating axles have C-clips; to keep the axles from coming out and taking the wheel with it. And remember, to get at these C-clips you'd have to drain the diff. and open it up. Full-floaters need no c-clips because the axles can't go anywhere; they're held in by being bolted to the wheel. In general, It's easier to work on a full-floater.
Source:
BRAKES - ADJUSTMENT
QUESTION: How do I adjust my brakes?
ANSWER: Before I get going on this I should mention that although this explanation will work on those models with both "heel" and "toe" adjustment, and "feeler" slots in the drums, there is a better method.
Let's start from the presumption that the following work has been done on the brake system:
1. All the brake lines have been replaced and/or, are not internally rusted and clear.
2. All the slave cylinders and the master cylinder have honed and if they have pitting in them, they have been re-sleeved. (I do them in stainless steel).
3. New cups have been inserted. (Rubber grease).
4. All the brake shoes are in good order and if the radius measurement is oversize then they have been replaced with oversize shoes.
5. The shoes have been "matched" to each drum and machined to fit.
6. Each drum has been skimmed and made as round as possible in an old vehicle.
I guess mention should be made that all flaring on brakes should NEVER be single flares. And, it would be sensible to clean the system with metho and fill with synthetic to avoid future water attraction and internal rusting.
So you've done the preparation and now you'd like a hard pedal and good brakes. You can do this job by yourself, or with someone in the drivers seat giving you a hand. If you're by yourself you need to run the motor and drive the wheels so make sure that you have been safety conscience and the vehicle is very secure on the stands.
Place the vehicle on stands so that all wheels are off the ground. Starting from the wheel that has the shortest brake lines (from the master cylinder) you: A). Adjust the shoes outwards so that the wheel can just be turned (with a fair bit of oomph from you). B). Hop into the drivers seat. Put the vehicle into gear and rotate the wheels slowly. WHILST the wheels are turning, pump the brake pedal about 6-12 times. Stop the wheels. C). Go back to the same wheel and you'll find that you'll be able to adjust it out some more. Do that. D). Repeat B). E). If necessary repeat C).
Now do the next closest wheel to the master cylinder. Work your way around the vehicle.
The reason you need to "bed" the brake shoes are because these models don't have a "heel" camber adjustment and each time you "pump" the pedal you are adjusting the "heel" of the shoe.
The shoes should have about 5 thou clearance between the shoe and the drum (internally). 5 thou is pretty close and unless you have an MB or GPW with slots in the drums, you can't do a measurement.
If you use your own strength whilst adjusting outwards you'll find that if you can move the wheel by hand (even though it may "sound" as if it's scraping) - it won't be too tight.
Your goal is to have a "solid" pedal with about 1 inch of movement.
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BRAKES - ADDING POWER BRAKES
QUESTION: Can I add power brakes to my old Jeep?
ANSWER: If what you are after is disc brakes you can have that with your stock running gear. I have a 47 CJ 2-a with disc brakes front and rear with the stock dana 25 and dana 44. How I did this was I got backing plates, spindles, calipers, and rotors off of a Chevy half ton pickup. It all bolts on and you can use ford half ton rotors or Jeep rotors and spindles to keep the 5 lug pattern. That is what it takes to put them on the front and maybe a little grinding for caliper clearance. On the rear they bolt on also but you have to get axles made because what you are doing is full floating the rearend. So is that you will have hubs on the rear or you can take the hubs off of a full time front end and not have hubs. I almost forgot you need stub axles from an early chevy dana closed knuckle front end the u joints on that stub axle and the one on the inner axle on the 25 are of the same size and you need the stub to match the finer spline on the internal hub. As for power brakes I would go to a wrecking yard and take some measurments and see what you can fit in your engine compartment and if you change to four wheel disc brakes I would find a master cylinder off of a car that has four wheel disc brakes.
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BRAKES - CONVERSION TO DISCS
QUESTION: Is there anything I should watch out for when mounting disc brakes?
ANSWER: Here is a great site on how to do that...
Be careful not mount the caliper backwards so that the bleeder isn't as high as it can be. I mounted my calipers on the wrong side at first and fought with trying to bleed them and then discovered they were on the wrong sides and swapped them around and the brakes bled out right away then.
I remember an old mechanic telling me how most calipers are mounted on the aft side. Supposedly they get less slush and mud on them that way. I vaguely remember Ford had a problem with their trucks in the mid-70's due to the calipers being on the front. Ford's fix was to change over to aft mounted calipers on later years.
Also, the flexible brake hose would be in a more protected location behind the axle.
One word of warning on the conversion I used 77 1/2 ton backing plates and 86 calipers, the calipers fit except that you have to grind a notch on the left hand backing plate. The 77 plates are the same on both sides apparently they are different in later years and the left hand caliper has a projection which lines up with a notch in the backing plate. Takes about 5 minutes with a grinder to adapt it.
Don't forget you need to plug the fill hole w/ a flush fitting plug that doesn't stick too far into the knuckle. (Wouldn't want it to hit anything in there would we?) Since you have the knuckle off, now's a good time to take it with you and try to find that plug. I had to use an Allen head pipe plug that I put on a lathe and rethread to get it to fit to the right depth. Then I cut off the top to make it fit flush with the knuckle. (In case you're wondering, I chucked a cutoff Allen wrench in the lathe and stuck the plug on it and held the plug on with the end stock) This was much easier having the knuckle there to test fit after each cut.
BRAKES - MICRO-BRAKES
QUESTION: What are micro-brakes?
ANSWER: For those of you whom may not know what a mico brake is it a supplementary hydraulic braking system that pressurizes you regular brakes, it is NOT a replacement for a parking brake but to be used in combination with one.
Lately I have been thinking about adding a mico to my jeep when I redo my brake system. When I thought about this the way the 66 CJ that I have is a single chamber master cylinder like most early jeeps. The problem when I try to sketch the plumbing out on paper is that the lines split directly out of the master cylinder. This would be a problem because you cannot pressurize the whole system at the same time, and then would not be effective as it was designed.
I purchased a Mico Lock from my local auto parts store. I installed it in the front brake lines when I installed disc brakes so that I could lock the brakes when outside running the winch. The one I had, was electrically actuated by a switch, press the brake pedal, and the "lock" maintained the pressure. It would continue to maintain pressure, until turned off and the pedal pressed again. Over time, it would bleed down - hence it is not a replacement for parking brakes.
The second one I purchased was a Hurst Roll-Control, also from a local store, but I think Summitt Racing carries them. I installed it when converting the rear brakes to disc. It came w/ a cute little switch that mounted to the shift lever. It was intended to make pulling away from a stop sign on a hill easier (you do not roll backwards into the grill of some knot-head that pulled up inches from your bumper). As I recall, you hold the switch in when stopped with the brakes on, take your foot off the brakes and modulate the clutch and foot feed, click the switch again, and away you go. I never used it enough to get the sequence right. I have gotten them from a company called AW Direct out of Berlin CT phone 800 243 3194. The mico brakes run from 184.95 for the basic lever lock single cylinder, the dual lock runs 412.95 for electronically controlled ones you jump up to the $900 range and then they can run up to 1080.95 for a three channel ABS system.
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BODY - SERIAL NUMBERS
QUESTION: Can I tell what year my jp was built by the serial number?
ANSWER: You sure can. See below...
YEAR BODY/MODEL START END TOTAL UNITS
1945 CJ-2A 10001 11824 1824
1946 CJ-2A 11825 83379 71554
1947 CJ-2A 83380 148458 65078
1948 CJ-2A 148459 222581 74122
1949 CJ-2A 222582 224764 2182
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BODY - SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS
QUESTION: Where are my serial numbers?
ANSWER: There are three serial number locations: Frame: Serial numbers are located on the out side of the left front frame horn, behind the bumper. An exception to this is the first 100 or so 1945s where the frame tag is on the inside frame horn reinforcement like the MBs. Engine: The engine number was located at the front of the engine block on the water pump boss. Body: On passenger side of firewall, under the hood.
See the frame serial number location here...
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BODY - GRILLE, EXTRA LAMPS
QUESTION: My '46 2a grill has the bullet lights plus another set of cone shaped lights below them can anyone help identify this grill? I've looked at tons of pics and have never seen another like it.
ANSWER: They may be "add-on" turn signals put in by a previous owner. That has been seen before.
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BODY - DATA PLATE ATTACHMENT METHOD
QUESTION: Does anybody know how the data plate on the dash and the serial number tags under the hood were originally attached? Mine were all secured with sheet metal screws when I got it. I was wondering if they originally had rivets, especially the serial number tags.
ANSWER: Sheet metal screws
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BODY - WATER THROUGH ENGINE AREA THROUGH BONNET HINGE
QUESTION 1: My 2A sits outside. I noticed water in the concave area of the spark plug nearest the firewall. Obviously rain is coming through the bonnet-to-firewall hinged/gap. Any solutions?
ANSWER 2: Somewhere I've read/seen something about a piece that was available, it bolted on in between the hinge and body. If you're not worried about originality a piece of aluminum siding J-channel might work, or bend up your own out of sheet metal.
I have an original gutter on my 3A and it doesn't work well either. Its wierd the way its designed, running perhaps 18" along under the hinge, but slotted in from the ends maybe 8" on either end. Before I did my resto, I sealed the slots.
QUESTION 2: Just below the hinge for the hood, there is a flange sticking forward, part of the firewall, running from side to side. About 1 foot in the middle had been bent up slightly. I thought it might have been damage from the engine being pulled out for rebuild many years ago. Now that I look a little closer, it looks like it was carefully bent up, just a little, to form a gutter and keep rainwater off the engine. I wonder if this was a common modification.
ANSWER 2: Not a modification but standard or optional equipment for the universal jeep. It was a rain gutter to channel the water away from the engine. Both my 1949 CJ3A and `1957 CJ3B have this piece. It bolts on using the hood attachment bolts and is a seperate piece.
Here are some pics...
Both photos show the rain gutter bolted to the cab with the hood hinge bolts on a 3B...
(the following links are now dead - if you know where it is email Ric@MightyMo.org)
http://www.ghg.net/ftwood/willys/images/63cj3b1/3b1engl.
jpg
http://www.ghg.net/ftwood/willys/images/63cj3b1/3b1engr.
jpg
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BODY - BONNET WOOD BLOCKS
QUESTION: Does anybody know what type of wood was originally used for the hood blocks on a CJ2A?
ANSWER: The blocks were unfinished, although many restorers use a clear wood finish, such as polyurethane, to give some protection.
They were secured with counterbored (not countersunk) machine screws, #10 I believe. (A counterbore has a flat bottom while a countersink is angled. I think they probably used a regular drill, which would have left a shallow angle, but have never seen an original block that is in good enough shape to be able to tell).
The round-head, slotted-drive screw, and washer, go down through the block, then the hood, and there are washers and nuts below. Mine had square nuts but it is not clear that these were original.
I don't know if this will help you, Vern But here's a rundown on the 3A blocks. Softwood, unidentifiable wood, quarter-sawed, 4" x 1" x 1.5"(h) , machine screw to hood w nut beneath, countersunk .75". (I made mine out of white oak, gave them a coat of urethane or two, and they look great. I still have the originals, but they are really weather beaten) The new ones were cut from a weathered piece I had laying around, so I just put the weathered side up.
Pine with a tung oil finish. Running down(length wise) the top of the wooden supports is a slot(made by using a router) .25" deep, .5" wide. In this slot/grove is a waxed, cotton cord. The purpose of this "cord" is to act as a bumper for the windshield. Surplus City sells a dandy replica of the whole shooting match. Blocks, cord and screws. I don't remember what the cost was but it was very inexpensive. Hope this helps.
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BODY - FASTENERS FOR SMALL BODY PARTS
QUESTION: What type of fasteners where used for small body parts?
ANSWER: Mine had square nuts but it is not clear that these were original. Only for the sake of true restoration, almost all, if not all, of the smaller, body fasteners (machine screws #12-8) used square nuts on my almost unaltered 3A, including harness straps, footman loops, hood bumpers, etc.
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BODY - COLORS FROM THE FACTORY, PIN STRIPES ON RIMS
QUESTION: What were the factory colors / pin stripes for the 2A?
ANSWER: All CJ-2A wheels had a pin stripe. This stripe was usually either black or ivory or it was the body color.
The body color options with pin stripes were...
1945 to 1946 (column shift) - There were only 2 colors available. Pasture Green (A John Deere-like green) and Harvest Tan (a dark tan, light brown).
Pasture Green used a Autumn Yellow (a bright yellow) wheel with a Pasture Green stripe.
Harvest Tan used Sunset Red (not red but a bright pumpkin orange) wheels
with a American Black pinstripe.
These are the only "official" column shift colors
1946 (non-column shift) - Pasture Green and Harvest Tan were dropped. 4 more colors were added. Princeton Black (sometimes mentioned as Americar Black), Normandy Blue (a real dark Navy Blue), Michigan Yellow (a medium yellow) and Harvard Red (a bright red).
Princeton Black - Still unsure on this one since it was such a rare color. Period color ads show a Princeton Black either a Harvard Red or Sunset Red wheels with a American Black stripe. I'm sure any of the wheel colors could have been used with this color.
Normandy Blue came with 2 different wheel colors. One was Autumn Yellow with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe. The other was Sunset Red with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.
Michigan Yellow came with 3 different wheel colors. One was Pasture Green with a Michigan Yellow stripe. An other was American Black with a Ivory stripe. The last one was Sunset Red with a American Black stripe.
Harvard Red came with 2 different wheel colors. One was Autumn Yellow with a Harvard Red stripe. The other was American Black with a Ivory Stripe.
1947 - Harvard Red was dropped. Picket Gray (a dark gray) and Luzon Red (a maroonish red) added.
Picket Gray had a Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe.
Luzon Red had a Universal Beige wheel with a Luzon Red stripe.
1948 - Potomac Gray (a light gray ) added.
Potomac Gray came with 2 different wheel colors. One was Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe. The other American Black with a Ivory stripe.
1949 - Picket Gray, Normandy Blue, Michigan Yellow dropped. Emerald Green (a dark green) added. I am not sure what the color is on this color is yet.
Somewhere in there Olive Drab was added (probably 1946 or 1947 since it is listed in the 1947 parts book). I would suspect it was for export models.
Authored by Todd Paisley, CJML
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BODY - PARTS COLORS
QUESTION: Are your shure the air-cleaner devices were painted same color as engine? According to what I have read in a book these parts were painted black, (not glossy).
ANSWER: The chassis, engine, air cleaner were all glossy black. They were not the flat black (or satin black) that other manufacturer's used.
At least on the CJ-2A, there were a couple different kinds of black:
1) W.O Part Number # 641237 Black Chassis Enamel (W.O. Specification -202) - This is the black used on the engine and the chassis components. It also was used for the wheels when they were painted black. The thinners used for this paint were:
a) W.O Part Number # 641240 Thinner for Synthetic Paints Gen. Purpose (W.O. Specification J-003)
b) W.O Part Number # 641241 Thinner for Synthetic Paints Slow Drying (W.O. Specification J-004)
2) W.O. Part Number # 641238 Grip-Tite Non-Skid Black Decking (W.O. Specification J-402) - This was used on the clutch and brake pedals.
3) W.O. Part Number # 641239 Acid Proof Black Lacquer (W.O. Specification J-303) - This was used on the battery tray and components.
4) W.O. Part Number # 643437 Black Dipping Enamel (W.O. Specification J-207) - This was used to paint a lot of the smaller parts.
5) W.O. Part Number # 663532 Americar Black (Striping Lacquer) - Used for those wheels with a black pin stripe. Thinners used were:
a) W.O Part Number # 641849 Anti-Skinning Agent for Americar Black
6) W.O. Part Number # 666781 Black (Air Dry Enamel) - Used to paint misc. parts that were painted black.
You also have to understand that a lot of the parts of the CJ-2A were purchased elsewhere. As part of the contract between them and the vendor, the parts may have been specified to have been painted "black". If Willys-Overland did not repaint them, odds are the shades and the degree of gloss would have varied. (For example: The air cleaner was purchased from Oakes Products Division (Houdaille-Hershey). There interpretation of what was "black enamel", may have been off a little bit.)
Todd Paisley
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BODY - 2A and MB BODY DIFFERENCES
QUESTION 1: I have always wondered was why they deleted the glove box on the CJ's?
ANSWER 1: Cost. The addition of the glovebox added cost to the vehicle. They did all kinds of things to try and save money. What was rather amusing was Willys seemed to waffle on whether to make a full hub cap standard on the 463. The idea kept cropping up in the Engineering Release Forms, but the idea was always cancelled or never released due to cost. It would show up one time and cancelled. Then it would crop up again a few months later and be cancelled. Another example is the extra seats in the back for the 463. They were standard items for the first couple years. But later on they were transfered to the Optional Equipment Group to save cost.
QUESTION 2: Were some of the dies the same as the MB dies?
ANSWER 2: Some of the tooling may have been used early on, but there are not a whole lot of body panels that are exactly the same on the CJ-2A and the MB (Although on the surface they look the same and are interchangeable.) You also have to understand that the tooling had a useful life. There are lots of entries in the Engineering Release Forms to change shapes and cuts to prolong tool and die life. They were very concerned about saving money. At some point the tooling would wear out and need to be repaced.
Some of the tooling may have been used early on, but there are not a whole lot of body panels that are exactly the same on the CJ-2A and the MB (Although on the surface they look the same and are interchangeable.) You also have to understand that the tooling had a useful life. There are lots of entries in the Engineering Release Forms to change shapes and cuts to prolong tool and die life. They were very concerned about saving money. At some point the tooling would wear out and need to be repaced.
QUESTION 3: Were any 2As "composite"?
ANSWER 3: Composite refers to the common body Ford and Willys agreed to in late 1943. Willys referred to these bodies as the "MB-FW". (Ford-Willys). During this time frame, American Central could manufacture more bodies than Willys could handle, while Ford at the time had more government contracts for other types of war items. It was determined that the best use of Ford's resources would be to devote them to the other contracts and allow American Central to make the bodies for Ford. The characteristics of both the Willys and Ford tubs were combined to make one "composite" body. (Although some individual characteristics still were retained.)
QUESTION 4: I realize that I am mis-using the term "composite" here. (and I am not entirely clear just what it means in relation to the GPWs) What I mean is: were any of the body "tubs" out- sourced?
ANSWER 4: All CJ-2A bodies were built by American Central. Willys-Overland was primarily an assembler of parts and not a large manufacturer of parts.
QUESTION 5: And who were these outside vendors? And did they play any part in post-war jeep production?
ANSWER 5: Depends on whether you mean body vendors or vendor in particular. So far I have identified 323 vendors who supplied parts to Willys-Overland for the Jeep. There were a variety of companies producing body parts. Depending on what model, it could be American Central (CJ-2A and early 463) or Briggs Manufacturing (later 463, 4T, 2T), Hayes (463, 663 tailgates and wheelhouses) and some other manufacturer I can't think of of the top of my head that made the 463 hoods. At some point, Willys decided to bring back production of the bodies in house and American Central bodies were phased out.
QUESTION 6: Had they also considered the heater at this time? Adding a heater behind the glove box would have been a bit awkward.
ANSWER 6: Heater on the 2A is on the driver's side.
Todd Paisley - CJML
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BODY - GRILLE DIFFERENCES
QUESTION: Can you describe the 2A grille variants?
ANSWER: There were only 2 kinds of grills used on the 2A. The early grill used the same kind of parking lamp holes as the MB, basically cutouts in the vertical grill face, with a horizontal support platform running diagonally from the back of the grill face to the side of the grill-to-radiator shroud. Bullet style parking lamps with either chrome (late) or painted (early) bezels bolted to the horizontal support. Sometime later in production ('47?) they did it differently, instead of a large hole with the bullet style lamps, the grill had a concave surface stamped into it with a small hole in the middle. The parking lamp lens and bezel bolted to (or through) the grill with the lamp wiring going through the hole in the middle of the concave area. This later part I'm not too sure about.
See the bullet lamps from the backside...
public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\BULLETB.jpg
See bullet lamps up close...
public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\BULLETF.jpg
As per " Parts List, Jeep, CJ2A/CJ3A......... Parking "Lamp" up to SN# 45680 Door ( outer portion of lamp, NOT a bezel ) is black finish flat lenses....
Parking "lamp" up to SN# CJ2A 97740 Round no bezel, chrome plated door, flat lens
Parking "light" CJ2A after SN# 97740 and all CJ3As, bezel, had convex lens
Does not appear to be a change in the grill other than the fact that the up to SN# 97740 would have a rounded in finished hole for the parking lamp since they were not mounted through the grill, but to a bracket on the inside of the grill Where the After SN# 97740 CJ2As and ALL 3As and Bs and beyond were mounted in the hole with a screw through the top and bottom of the bezel, and had convex lenses.
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BODY - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A 2A AND 3A GRILLS
QUESTION: Anyone know how to easily tell the 2A grill from the 3A grill? I have a grill from one of the two but cannot tell which. It does not have the bullet style parking lamps so I know it is not an early 2A. What about the late 2A from the 3A?
ANSWER: The early 3A would have the same grill as the late 2A.
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BODY - WOOD IN FRAME
QUESTION: Does anyone know what type of wood was used in the body supports [of the 2A's]?
ANSWER: From what I've read, it is white oak.
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BODY- WINDSCREEN WEATHER-STRIP
QUESTION: What are the parts numbers for the weather-strip on the windscreen?
ANSWER: I'm pretty sure that it is [J.C. Whitney] 81nf8835t, $8.99 for 8 feet. On a side-by-side
comparison with the old rubber, there's virtually no difference.
I've also found that JCW's 81nf2465n weather-strip with built-in lock-strip ($22.95 for 16 feet) is an "exact" replacement for the side window weather-strip on my Utility Delivery Parkway conversion.
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BODY - VACUUM MOTOR CLEANING
QUESTION: How do I improve the operation of my vacuum motors?
ANSWER 1: Vacuum windshield wiper motors work using a leather or rubber flap which is sealed with grease in the casing. Since these motors are usually 40+ years old, the grease can dry up. If the flap itself is not rotted or worn out, you can often get a vacuum motor working again by following these steps:
1. Remove the wiper motor from the car.
2. Find a clean spot and lay out paper (to catch small parts)
3. Remove the screws (sometimes special square-headed) that secure the top plate to the half-round main body. Make sure you note the position of any hardware, sliding parts, etc.
4. Lift the top plate off and set it aside.
5. Examine the flap. If it is rotted or obviously damaged, you need to get it rebuilt. Hemmings Motor News lists several services that rebuild wiper motors.
6. Use brake cleaner to remove all old grease from the inside of the half-round main body.
7. Apply a thin layer of smooth, NON-DETERGENT grease to the inside. DO NOT use wheel bearing grease. Detergent grease will eat up the flap.
8. Reassemble and reinstall the vacuum motor. If it still doesn't work, send it off to be rebuilt or replace it.
ANSWER 2: To lube the vacuum motor, I use graphite in an alcohol base. It is watery thin so gives good penetration to the moving parts, and then the alcohol evaporates and you have a non-sticky lubricant. I got real tired of cleaning off the dirt and stuff that was attracted by oil type lubes.
See a vacuum wiper motor here...
public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\wiper-2.jpg
See a vacuum wiper hose connected to the intake manifold here...
public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\INTAKE.JPG
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BODY - DATA [NOMENCLATURE] PLATES
QUESTION: Where can I get replica data plates?
ANSWER: You can buy them from...
R A P C
PO Box 191
Bowie TX 79009
(940) 872-2403
FAX (940) 872-3406
-or-
Willys-Minneapolis
Gary or Louie
612-460-8888
Farmington, MN
See some repros on a 2A here...
public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\DATANEW.jpg
CLUTCH - PEDAL FREE PLAY
QUESTION: I was adjusting the clutch pedal free play last night on my 48 CJ2A last night and had a question. How much end play is normal on the cross shaft between the frame and transfer case?
ANSWER: It's been a while since I redid all that, so remembering. Radial play is the most common, as ball pivot on xfercase wears on one side. End play of .125" is nothing. [Another adds] If I remember right my jeep had about a half of an inch of play when I still had the stock pedals.
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CLUTCH - PEDAL ARRANGEMENT
QUESTION: I've got a question about how the brake and clutch pedals are supposed to be installed on my 48 CJ2A. There is a raised lip on one edge only of each pedal. The pedals are mirror images of each other, one has the lip on the left side, the other pedal has the lip on the right. Which way are the raised lips supposed to go, on the inside or outside of the feet?
ANSWER: The book says the raised edges are together, under the steering. This, so as not to hinder the foot getting from the gas to the brake.
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CLUTCH - CORRECT FIT
QUESTION: While putting the clutch back together in my 48' 2A I ran into a question. The center piece of the clutch disk protrudes farther on one side than the other. My memory and plain fit tell me that the longer side goes toward the T.O. bearing and that the shallower side toward the flywheel. However, the illustration in my HAYNES manual shows the longer side going towards the flywheel. I have found other incorrect illustrations in this book but my nagging insecurities prompt me to make 100% sure by submitting the question to you more knowledgeable folk. Please allay my fears and tell me if I am correct or is Mr. Haynes?
[CJML - Gary A. Anderson]
ANSWER: The side that does not stick out goes to[ward] the flywheel. That should be true for most clutch disks.
[CJML- Sam Warfield]
ELECTRICAL - SPARK BUT NOT FIRING
QUESTION: Why would I have spark in a cylinder but it is not firing? I *can* tell from the tune-up machine scope that the plug is actually firing (gets the voltage spiking that you'd expect). Compressed air shows the valves are working properly, and both wet and dry compression checks come out ok (about like the others). The thing seems to run pretty much as it should at idle, and then if you short out 1, 2, or 4 you get a miss and drop in RPM. With #3 shorted, it runs the same as not shorted - I even tried different distributor caps, plugs, plug leads - same results. Its almost like its actually firing on 3 with or without the plug shorted :) (of course, this is at idle - driving it with the plug wire off, you can definitly notice a power loss) The system is still 6 volt. Why is it not firing?
ANSWER: Your symptoms a highly suggestive of a ***weak*** spark as compared to an absence of spark. I say this because you have a 6 volt system, which means you have a generator. Almost all generators have larger pulleys than do alternators, and therefore spin at a lower speed than an alternator does for a given engine RPM. As I think back about the generator equipped cars and trucks I have owned (four of them), it seems to me that the ammeter would register a slight discharge when the motor was idling. This means that it is putting out at a lower voltage than the battery, probably around 5.5 volts.
With a 6 volt system, you are undoubtedly running the breaker point/capacitor/coil system for creating the high voltage necessary to fire the plugs. This system uses energy stored in the form of a magnetic field:
The cycle begins when the ignition points *close*, completing an electrical circuit from the power source (the battery), through the ignition switch, to the coil, to the distributor points, which connect to the grounded motor block, hence back to the battery.
This completed electrical path, or circuit allows current to flow through the "primary" winding of the ignition coil. This in turn creates a magnetic field, with is concentrated by the iron core of the coil. This represents stored energy that can be used to create a high voltage output. The current flows for as long as the points are closed, which is referred to as the "dwell time," or simply the "dwell." It is important that you have the proper dwell. Too short a dwell time, and the core will not have sufficient time to fully charge with magnetic energy, or "flux." Too long a dwell causes unnecessary heat build up in the coil, which can shorten its life expectancy. The proper dwell is designed into the cam lobes in the distributor, but this can change if the lobes become worn down. In an ideal situation, the lobes will allow the points to remain closed long enough for sufficient flux to build up in the core of the coil at the highest design RPM of the motor, but not so long as to excessively overheat the coil during periods of prolonged idle. This wear on the lobes is one reason why you should replace or rebuild a point equipped distributor periodically. I like to do it about every 60 to 75 thousand miles. Good cam grease can prolong the life of a cam substantially.
You can test to see if your cam is worn by using a dwell meter in conjunction with a timing light and a set of feeler gages:
Install a new set of points, setting them as accurately as possible to the manufacturer's specified gap. This may take you several tries. Now, start the motor and set the timing to the factory specification. Use a known good (read accurate) dwell meter and check the dwell reading. If it falls within the manufacturer's specification, your distributor cam is OK. If it does not, you need to replace or rebuild your distributor.
Next, use the timing light and observe the timing mark for several seconds. If it is perfectly steady, your distributor is in good shape mechanically. If it moves around, or dances, something is worn in the system. Possible causes of dancing timing include excessive wear in the bearing between the drive shaft of the distributor and the part that supports the rotor (I find this to be the most common problem); a loose breaker point mounting plate (another very common problem - check the pivot where the plate moves under the control of the vacuum advance unit - Note that the early jeeps do not have a vacuum advance); weak, damaged, or missing springs or weights in the centrifugal advance unit; warped or improperly mounted points; or occasionally a worn distributor drive dear or timing gear/timing chain.
It is important to know how the coil and points work to create the high voltage needed to fire the plugs. This happens when the points ****OPEN****. When the points open, the electrical circuit that was supplying current to the primary of the spark coil is interrupted. Without the energy supplied by the current flowing through the primary, the magnetic field in the core of the coil begins to collapse. I will not go into the physics involved, but suffice it to say that the collapsing magnetic filed induces a voltage in the windings of the coil that is trying to sustain the collapsing magnetic field. This induced voltage will be opposite in polarity to the voltage that sustained the current that created the magnetic field in the first place.
This induced voltage is called "magnetic kick." The amplitude of the "kick" is dependant on the *rate* at which the field collapses. The faster the collapse, the higher the "kick" voltage. The speed of the collapse (and therefore the magnitude of the "kick") is highest if there is a very high resistance between the terminals of the windings, and correspondingly is lower as this resistance increases.
There are two windings in a spark coil. The primary winding is composed of relatively few turns of relatively heavy wire, and the secondary winding is composed of a relatively great many turns of relatively fine wire. "Relatively" is used to compare the two windings with each other, not necessarily with any other frame of reference. The exact gage and number of turns is determined by the design parameters of the coil. The Primary winding has its ends connected to the two terminals on top of the coil marked "ign" or "+" and "gnd" or "-". The secondary winding has one end connected to the case of the coil and the other end terminates at the high voltage output where the wire that goes to the distributor cap is attached.
An inductive "kick" is created in both the primary and the secondary windings. Because there are a lot more turns in the secondary, the magnitude of the "kick" is much higher in the secondary. It is this voltage that is used to fire the plugs.
However, provision must be made to deal with the primary "kick." If the primary "kick" is allowed to dump itself across the points as they open, the resulting arc will very rapidly destroy the points! The capacitor is used to store the energy from the inductive "kick" in the primary winding.
When the points close, the capacitor stores an electrical charge at the voltage of the system (about 6 volts). When the points open, the voltage in the primary begins to rise in response to the collapsing magnetic field. This rising voltage is stored inside the capacitor where it is held until the points close again, shorting out the capacitor. Because the energy is bled out from the capacitor over a relatively long period of time when compared to the time it took the magnetic field to collapse, the voltage is lower, and the points are protected.
It is important that the capacitor have the right value to work properly. Too much capacitance, and it will slow down the collapse of the magnetic field, causing a weak spark. Note that both the primary and secondary windings draw the energy for their respective inductive "kicks" from the same source - the collapsing field in the core of the coil. Too little, and it will not be able to store enough of the energy induced in the primary when the field collapses, resulting in poor point life. The exact value of capacitance needed depends on several factors, including the specific parameters in the particular coil installed (inductance, resistance of the windings, etc). I do not change out a capacitor when doing a tune-up if the points are wearing uniformly, as it is properly balanced to that system. On the other hand, I have been known to buy a half a dozen capacitors and try to find the best one by substitution. Yes, it costs some money, but it gets the best performance from the system.
It is possible that the capacitor, points, etc. are working to specification, but you will still have a weak spark. A high resistance short anywhere within the coil itself that could be syphoning off power from that should be going to make a good, hot spark. Also, a short to ground anywhere in the high voltage side can rob a lot of power. Other possible sources of "power theft" include: A cracked or delaminated core in the coil; bad high voltage (plug) wires, including the insulating boots; cracked or moist cap; cracked rotor; or a cracked porcelain on one or more plugs. There is a simple "farmer's method" test to see if you are getting a good, "hot" spark. It was taught to me by my father:
With the engine off, remove a plug wire and insert a short (about 2-1/2" to 3" long) 1/4" bolt into the boot. Push it in far enough so that it is fully inside the connection in the boot. Rest the bolt on the block someplace to short it to ground. Start the motor and carefully move the bolt away from the block, very slowly. WARNING - SHOCK HAZARD! Observe the spark that jumps between the head of the bolt and the block. THE FOLLOWING COMMENTS APPLY ONLY TO A BREAKER POINT IGNITION SYSTEM. A modern computer controlled ignition has a much different characteristic appearance to the spark. All of the tests are done with a warm motor (the battery has had a chance to recharge after starting the motor) with the motor at idle speed....
First, observe the *length* of the spark. Move the bolt away from the block until a spark no longer jumps across. Now move it back towards the block until the spark starts up again. You are looking for the longest spark you can make *that will fire every time.* Eyeball estimate the length as best you can. The 1/4" bolt makes a good reference for you to use.
"Minimum" spark - You should be able to produce a spark ***at least*** 1/4" long. It takes a lot more voltage to cause a spark under the pressures inside the cylinder on the compression stroke than it does in free air, as you are testing. A 1/4" arc represents the minimum voltage needed for good ignition, particularly if the motor is old and pumping oil.
"Average" spark - Most breaker point systems in good shape will throw a spark about 3/8 of an inch. This should be enough to do the job.
"Strong" spark - well optimized breaker point system can throw a spark a half inch or more. I used the "swap the condenser" method to get the best possible spark from a '53 Dodge WM300 "Power Wagon" I use to own. It would throw a spark almost 5/8 of an inch once the generator had sufficient time to recharge the battery.
Now, observe the **color** of the spark. I think it is due to the duration of the spark, or how long it takes the field to collapse to the point where it can no longer sustain the arc.
A "Cold" spark - This type of spark is thin and light blue in color. This is the kind of spark you will see with modern computer controlled motors, which throw a very long, light blue spark. They use a spark of relatively short duration because this type of spark can be controlled more precisely.
A "Hot" spark - A "hot" spark appears orangeish or yellowish, and is wider than a "cold" spark. Dad said that it represented plenty of current flowing in the arc. All I know is that any time I saw a Hot spark at least 3/8 of an inch long, the motor would generally start easy and run well with good gas milage.
There are several reasons why a "weak," "cold" spark would produce the symptoms you observe. Because there is little difference between the engine performance at idle with #3 wire on or off, it is obvious that, while the spark plug may be firing in air, it is not firing hot enough (or what is more probable regularly enough) to ignite the mixture in that cylinder. Variations in compression pressure may allow the other three cylinders to fire with a spark that is too weak to work #3 which would almost certainly have the highest compression pressure of the lot. There may be an air leak in the manifold (check the gasket, and the manifold itself for any cracks, no matter how small) which is resulting in a leaner mixture feeding to #3. It takes a better spark to ignite a lean mixture than it does a rich one. A very small crack in either valve in #3 cylinder could be too small to really show up under the average compression test, but could dilute the mixture enough to make it hard to light with a weak spark. The same holds for the valve seats. #3 could be burning a tad more oil than the rest. Oil droplets in the mixture can make a cylinder much harder to light. A very small crack in the head or the block could be allowing a bit of water to get into the mixture, making it harder to light. Some of the symptoms will be more noticeable when the motor is cold than when it is warmed up. For example, a lean mixture will be easier to light after the motor is warmed. You should do all of your testing with a fully warmed up motor.
Once the motor speeds up, the generator is turning fast enough to produce appreciable output. The additional voltage supplied by the generator will create a spark that is "strong" and "hot" enough to properly ignite the mixture, which is why there is a loss of power when you pull the wire and drive at a higher speed. This is a bigger problem with 6 volt systems, as it takes a good, low resistance circuit to push enough current through the coil to give a good spark. Make sure that all of your connections are tight, all of the wires are good, etc. You may learn something if you use a piece of at least #14 gage wire and connect directly between the "ign" or "+" side of the coil and the positive terminal of your battery. If this clears up your problem, you will need to investigate the entire ignition circuit (wires, ignition switch, etc.) and find and cure the bad spots. Note that higher engine speeds tend to create a more uniform mixture in the cylinders, overcoming problems due to air leaks, etc.
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ELECTRICAL - TELLTALE LAMP
QUESTION: My CJ-2A has a very small, knurled knob-looking thing just to the left of the throttle handle. I reached under the dash and it appears to be a switch of some kind by virture of the fact that there are wires going to it. Does anyone know what this is for?
ANSWER: Scrape away the layers of paint and you should find a small round lens in the center. This is the tell-tale light for the headlight high beams. You can unscrew the knurled outer housing to replace the small bulb inside.
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ELECTRICAL - START-CIRCUIT IN WIRING
QUESTION: Can someone walk me through the "start-circuit" on my wiring?
ANSWER: There should be a wire coming into the ignition switch from either the battery or a fuse block. This supplies 12V to the ignition switch. Coming from the ignition switch you should have 3 terminals: 1. Accessory power 2. Ignition Power 3. Start power
Let's discuss each of these one at time.
1. Accessory power, will run your radio and sometimes you gauges and heater.
2. Ignition power, will supply power through a voltage dropping resistor to the positive side of your coil while the key is turned on. This is not a good position to leave the key in when the engine is not running because if the engine was stopped with the points closed this will supply constant power to the coil. The coil is designed to turn on and off, not run constantly. It will overheat or burn out the points.
There are a number of reasons for the voltage dropping resistor but lets let it suffice to say that as you crank the engine the voltage of the battery will drop to around 7.5 minimum voltage and therefore the coil was designed to run on that voltage.
3. Starter power will provide 12v to the starter solenoid. When it engages it creates a path for high current to flow to the starter. It also provide a voltage boost line out to the + side of the coil. The starter motor draws a large amount of current and thus drops battery output from 12v to about 7.5v. The 7.5 going through the dropping resistor would drop to about 3.3v and would not be enough to start the engine. However the 7.5v supplied to the + side of the coil from the voltage boost line is enough to start. As soon as the engine starts, the ignition switch is released, the solenoid disengages, the starter stops, the voltage returns to 12v and the voltage boost line is removed.
To the best of my knowledge there should not be a negative output or input to the ignition switch. However, my truck was wired with the voltage boost coming back into my ignition switch as well.
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ELECTRICAL - AMMETER INSTALLATION
QUESTION: How do I install an ammeter?
ANSWER: The AMMETER is simple to hook up, and most of the wiring may already be in place. Here's the way to hook it up:
I assume that you have the standard type of alternator that will putout about 60 amps maximum, and that you have only the average vehicle loads (lights, a radio, etc.) If you have a winch, you will probably benefit from heavier wire. Post here if you do, and I'll try to help. For a standard vehicle setup, you will need to wire your ammeter this way:
You should use at least a number 10 wire (again check the package)for all the connections leading to the ammeter. There will be two terminals on the back of the gauge. They may or may not have any markings on them. You cannot damage the meter if you happen to get the connections reversed, so that is not a problem.
You should run a heavy (#10) wire from one side of the ammeter to the positive post on your battery. Most of the time, this is done by running the wire to the terminal on the starter solenoid that has the battery connected to it. Note that this wire will cause some considerable fireworks if it comes into contact with any part of the body, so make sure that it is well insulated where it runs through any holes. I like to use a short piece of vacuum hose for protection where ever any wire passed through a hole. This should be the only wire connected to this post on the ammeter.
There should be two wires connected to the other post on the ammeter. One will run directly to the "Battery" terminal on the alternator. This should be at least a #10 wire.
There should be another wire connected to the same post on the ammeter as the wire running to the alternator. This wire is used to provide power for the lights and ignition switch. A #12 wire will do, but if you have enough #10 on hand, you might as well use it. The simplest way is to run a heavy (at least #12) wire from the ammeter to the "BAT" terminal on the ignition switch, then run another wire from the "BAT" terminal on the ignition switch to the "BAT" terminal on the headlight switch. Most headlight switches have a circuit breaker mounted on them that has the "BAT" terminal on it. You can run a #14 wire from the other side of the circuit breaker to the break light switch, and the turning signals if you have them.
The horn relay usually does not connect to the ammeter, but is instead connected to the battery.
After you get everything hooked up, turn on the headlights. The ammeter should swing to the "D" or "DISCHARGE" side. If it does not, simply reverse the wires on the ammeter to make it swing the other way.
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ELECTRICAL - FOMOCO ALTERNATOR/VOLTAGE REGULATOR
QUESTION: I am installing a Ford alternator and external voltage regulator. How do I wire them?
ANSWER: The Ford ext volt reg has the following harness tabs:
F - This is connected to the "Field" terminal on the Alternator
I - This is connected to one side of the resistor on the firewall. [see below]
A - This is connected to the "Battery" terminal on the alternator.
S - This is connected to the "Stator" terminal on the alternator.
All of the above wires carry relatively little current. A #14 wire (check the package at the parts store) will be plenty heavy for these wires.
-----------
Ford Alternator has the following tabs:
Stator - This is connected to the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator.
Field - This is connected to the "F" terminal on the voltage regulator.
Battery - * see below
Ground - There should be a #14 wire from this connection to one of the mounting screws on the base of the voltage regulator.
You will need to make the following connections in addition to the above. The wires may already be in place, but you should check them to make sure the insulation is good and the connections are clean and tight:
From the other side of the resistor on the fire wall: Run a #14 gage wire to the "accessory" terminal on your ignition switch.
If your switch does not have an "accessory" terminal, use the one running to the ignition coil.
Do not connect to the terminal on the ignition switch that runs to the battery. You will drain your battery when the motor is not running if you do!
-------------------------
ELECTRICAL - 12V CONVERSIONS, VOLTAGE REGULATOR
QUESTION: How can I convert my 6v volt regulator to a 12v?
ANSWER: I recently stumbled across an excellent write up on how to build 12V to 6V voltage regulators of different capacities. It's a top-notch article. Check it out at:
(the following link is now dead - if you know where it is email
Ric@MightyMo.org)
Also see...
http://www.classictruckshop.com/12volt.htm
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ELECTRICAL - COIL POWER SOURCE
QUESTION: Where does the coil get it's power from?
ANSWER: In the modern vehicle, there is are two ways that are used to supply power to the coil. I guess I had better give a little background:
The old 6v. system used a coil that was designed to operate at the normal charging voltage of a generator supported system. This was about 7.4 volts. The coil would function properly with this voltage applied to it. Because many of the early vehicles had a mechanical pedal on the floorboard that actually engaged the starter motor to the ring gear on the flywheel (no Bendix unit) and simultaneously closed a mechanical switch mounted on The starter motor, most early cars and trucks use the following ignition circuit:
A wire runs from the battery to the ignition switch. Another wire runs from the ignition switch to the "BAT" terminal on the coil. That's it - pure and simple.
With the invention of the Bendix drive unit, it was no longer necessary to have a direct mechanical linkage to engage the starter. This meant that it was possible to have a solenoid (relay) mounted some place that could work the starter. This made it possible to start the motor by either a pushbutton on the dash or a special "start" position in the ignition switch. Because the system was still a six volt one, the coil connections remained the same.
In both cases, there is a real problem with a loss of voltage available to the coil when the motor is being cranked. Depending on lots of factors, it is possible for a six volt system to drop to as little as four volts during cranking. When cars started to switch to 12 volts, a good solution to this problem was available.
The spark coil in a "12 volt" system is designed to operate at about 8.5 to 9.0 volts! Most "12v" coils will get pretty hot, and burn out in a few miles if they are connected the same way the old 6v coils are. They all require a "ballast resistor" in series with the ignition switch. You can buy a "ballast resistor" at any parts store. The are made of a white to off-white ceramic material and have a wire wound element in a slot molded in the ceramic. Some parts people will call it a "coil resistor."
Here's how you do the basic hook up a 12 volt spark coil:
+
|------(Ammeter)----(Ignition)-----(Ballast )-----(Spark)
-------|- ( Switch ) (Resistor) (Coil )
| |
|Battery|
| |
---------
I mentioned that the advent of the 12 volt system allowed a solution to the problem of low available voltage during cranking. This is done by adding a separate circuit that supplies power directly to the coil from the battery during cranking. This power is taken from a special terminal on the starter solenoid. This terminal is designed to supply power directly from the battery whenever the solenoid is in crank mode. The connections look like this:
+
|-\----(Ammeter)----(Ignition)-----(Ballast )-----(Spark)
-------|- \ A ( Switch ) (Resistor) /(Coil )
| | \ |-----------| /
|Battery| \ | B|-----------------------------/
| | \ | |
--------- \--(Solenoid)---(Starter)
(Motor )
Where:
A = Terminal on solenoid that goes to the ignition switch, and works the solenoid to start the motor. Note that this can have any one of several markings (a number, "S", and "start" are common).
B = Terminal on solenoid that supplies the "boost" power to the coil during crank. Again, the markings are varied (a number, "I", "C" and "coil" are common).
The wire from the solenoid connects to the same terminal on the coil as the wire from the ballast resistor.
Because you have ignition only during crank, it is almost a given that you are only getting the "boost" power from the solenoid, and there is an open in the regular ignition circuit.
-----------------------------------
ELECTRICAL - ALTERNATOR KICK-IN RPM
QUESTION: My alternator does not kick in until I rev the engine. Sound normal?
ANSWER: Absolutely. If you will look under the hood of any alternator equipped car, you will notice that the pulley on the alternator is pretty small when compared to the pulley on the generator that was originally on your '2A. Also, the pulley on the crankshaft of an alternator equipped vehicle is about 1" larger in diameter than the pulley on your jeep. All this means that, for a given engine RPM, the alternator on a car designed for one is turning at a higher RPM than the one on your jeep would be. Alternators are designed to turn at about 3X the crank RPM - a typical setup would have the alternator turning about 8,000 - 9,000 RPM at highway speeds. This higher RPM is the main reason why alternators produce more power than a generator. They can turn at a high speed because they don't have the heavy windings in the rotating part (rotor), but rather in the frame (stator). A generator uses brushes and a commutator to rectify the inherent AC output, which requires that the heavy windings be on the rotor, plus the commutator bars. This limits the practical RPM for a generator.
------------------------
ELECTRICAL - STALLING
QUESTION: When I go about 1/2 mile, engine shuts down. Wait 5 minutes, she will start again. Sounds like coil overheating?
ANSWER:
Five possible sources of this behavior come to mind.
1. A defective coil. It could have an open winding situated so that, as long as the coil is cold it is touching and current can flow. When the coil heats up (they all do in normal operation), CTE causes the innards to move around, opening up the winding. When the coil cools down, the CTE reverses direction, moving the winding so the circuit is closed.
2. A defective capacitor inside the distributor. This use to be a major problem when automotive capacitors were made with transformer oil and paper. I have not had this problems for many years, but a bad capacitor was a real possibility as late as the early 60's.
3. A defective series dropping resistor. As in the case of the coil, it could have a broken wire that opens the circuit when the resistor heats up.
4. A defective ignition switch.
5. A fuel starvation problem [Check tank/line for blockage].
The next time your motor quits, leave the ignition switch on and measure the voltage at the coil terminals (both sides). This could tell us a lot...
--------------------------
ELECTRICAL - AMMETER OPERATION AND WIRING
QUESTION: The wires that actually are used to charge the battery, then, are running through the ammeter to get to from the alt to the battery then, is that correct?
ANSWER: Yes, that is correct. The customary way to install an automotive ammeter is to have it monitor the current flowing *from* or *to* the battery. The important thing is to not allow your battery to become discharged, or "rundown" as my father use to say. The ammeter will tell you whether or not power (current) is flowing into the battery or flowing from it.
You can tell a lot about the condition of a charging system *if* you know how to interpret what your ammeter is telling you. Since you are installing an alternator and its associated regulator, the ammeter should respond like this:
Ammeter Operation
After a large load (for example starting the motor): The ammeter should initially show a fairly high rate of charge immediately after the motor starts and attains enough RPM to let the alternator put out appreciable current. With most alternators, this happens at *roughly* *about* *approximately* (note my choice of words) 1800 RPM. At that speed, the alternator should be able to put out enough current to supply the connected load (ignition, lights, etc.) and also replace the energy used to start the car.
Due to the chemistry that is going on inside the battery, it will initially accept a goodly quantity of electrons while it replaces the chemistry that was depleted in cranking the motor. This process is not linear with time, and you should see a large ammeter reading right after the motor starts (assuming it's turning fast enough). The exact amount of current shown depends on a lot of factors like how easy your motor starts; the capacity and condition of the battery; the capacity of the alternator; the motor RPM-you get the picture. It is very hard to predict the actual current, but we can talk in general terms. The ammeter should initially show a good rate of charge.
This will diminish over time, and should become very close to zero after one to two minutes, perhaps less, probably remaining at a small positive value (the battery is charging slightly). It should stay that way for the rest of the time you are driving around. This is the state of a properly functioning charging system. The alternator/regulator combination is maintaining the correct voltage (14.5 to 14.7 volts) to hold the battery at the fully charged point, and is able to supply all of the power required to operate the vehicle (lights, motor, radio, etc. etc.). As long as you seethe ammeter swing to a good rate of charge then fall off to slightly above zero and stay there, your charging system is in good shape. Two common charging system problems are failure to produce enough power, and improper voltage regulator action.
Failure to Show Enough Power
The ammeter will not show a strong charge immediately after starting, and/or the needle will show discharge whenever a load is turned on (for example, the headlights). Either of these conditions are a warning that something is wrong in the charging system. It cannot produce enough electricity to replace the chemistry used in starting, and/or supply the demands of the various components. There are several possible problems. The most common ones include: 1. Defective voltage regulator; 2. Bad connections; 3. One or more parts has failed in the alternator - the brushes and the internal "diode bank" are the usual culprits; 4. A loose or broken fan belt!
Volt Reg Set Too High or Failed
This is not a common problem with the modern solid state regulators, but it use to happen fairly often with the old mechanical types. What happens is that the regulator is unable to control the output of the alternator, and it starts to overcharge the battery. This condition is diagnosed when the ammeter shows an unusually high initial charge rate and the needle fails to come almost to zero after driving for a while.
-----------------------
ELECTRICAL - FACTORY WIRING HARNESS
QUESTION: Is there any information on the 2A wiring harness from the factory?
ANSWER: Here are the serial number breakdowns for the CJ-2A wiring harnesses I am looking to find examples of. (Since he also wants to make up CJ-3A, CJ3-B and CJ-5 wiring harness, I'm sure he would like examples of those too. I don't know when the changes of these models occured though. The more examples the better to get a greater sampling. Here is your chance to help make sure accurate harnesses are available!)
Single wire assemblies:
Fuel Gauge to Fuel Tank Cable (All CJ-2As)
Ignition Coil to Ammeter Cable (All CJ-2As)
Ignition Switch to Fuel Gauge Cable (All CJ-2As)
Horn Button to Connector Cable (After Serial Number
178361)
Harnesses:
Body Wiring Harness - Long (This is generally the wiring harness that comes from the light switch and other under-dash switches)
Serial Number 10001 to 47099
Serial Number 47100 to 51228
Serial Number 51229 to 75448
Serial Number 75449 to 97740
Serial Number 97741 to 116421
Serial Number 116422 to 178361
Serial Number 178362 to End of Production
Body Wiring Harness - right side (This is the wiring harness for the ignition coil, distributor, starter switch, ammeter to voltage regulator)
Serial Number 10001 to 46478
Serial Number 46479 to 50800
Serial Number 50801 to 50900
Serial Number 50901 to 51184
Serial Number 51185 to End of Production
Chassis Wiring Harness (This is the wiring harness for the stop lights and tail lights)
Serial Number 10001 to 51228
Serial Number 51229 to 75448
Serial Number 75449 to 219465
Serial Number 219465 to End of Production
Generator to Voltage Regulator Harness (All CJ-2As)
Headlight - Left - Harness (All CJ-2As)
Headlight - Right - Harness (All CJ-2As)
Parking Light - Left - Harness
Serial Number 10001 to 97740
Serial Number 97741 to End of Production
Battery to Starting Switch Cable (All CJ-2As)
Starting Switch to Starting Motor Cable (All CJ-2As)
Todd Paisley - CJML -------------------------------------
ELECTRICAL - WIRING HARNESS REMOVAL
> Concerning the questions about removing and replacing a harness on a CJ2A: I recently went through the same process. I had already removed the seats and fuel tank. Once I removed the clutch and brake pedals, access was not too bad. Removal of the speedometer, like previously mentioned, gave a lot more room to work. All of the harness forward of the firewall came back through the 7/8" hole with no problem. Don't bother removing the wires from the light switch, high beam tell-tale light or ign switch/coil. Just undo them from the dash and remove them with all the wires attached.
I definately agree with the comment about not cutting if not absolutely needed. I was able to get the old, very decrepit harness out in one big piece. The only wires that needed to be actually unhooked under the dash were at the fuel gauge and ammeter. And possibly the dash illumination light, but mine was already broken.
I was able to then lay the old harness on a sheet of plywood, secure it between some nails, and build a nice duplicate over the original in the comfort of my shop. When some time later I installed it, with all the wire lengths exactly as before, I honestly spent less than an hour under the dash. The switches and coil, etc. were already connected, and just had to be secured to the dash. There was very little fumbling with individual connections required.
On a practical note, for working in the cold: I have a couple of clamp-on work lights, the kind with big reflectors like a large bowl. They use regular screw-in incadescent bulbs. I put floodlight-shaped heat lamps in them. Obviously use care for any combustibles around them, but they do a wonderful job of taking the chill away when working outside.
-----------------------
ELECTRICAL - 6V STARTER ON A 12V SYSTEM
QUESTION: Can I use a 6v starter on a 12v system?
ANSWER: First of all, yes, the starter will work as is. Yes, it will get hot quicker, much hotter. Yes, it will work for a while if your motor is well-tuned and you don't have to grind on the starter. BUT there is a potentially *big* problem if the Bendix drive doesn't engage the ring gear on the flywheel. It's kind of complicated, but when an electric motor is running, the rotating armature (technically the "rotor") has electric current flowing through it which is proportional to the applied voltage and an opposing voltage called the "back EMF" that is generated in the windings by the fact that they are cutting the magnetic field produced by the field coils (the "stator"). A rotor will turn at the RPM required to create a back EMF that is equal to the applied voltage, taking into account the work being done by the rotor. Skipping all the physics, this happens at an RPM that is determined by several factors, the primary ones being the number of turns in the rotor, the current flowing though them, the work being done, and the strength of the magnetic field. If no work is being done, this RPM can be quite high. A properly designed motor can run unloaded at its rated voltage and the various parts of the rotor will be strong enough to withstand the centrifugal forces that are trying to make it fly apart.
If you double the applied voltage, the system will establish equilibrium at whatever RPM it takes to make the back EMF equal the applied voltage, again taking into account any work being done. If the starter is craning the motor, the load will keep the RPM low enough so there is no danger of things flying apart, which is why there is no problem *unless the Bendix doesn't engage the flywheel gear*. If this happens, the motor will run virtually unloaded (only friction and wind drag will supply the load), and the RPM will be quite high - possibly high enough so that the centrifugal force tears the armature apart!
Some of this can be mitigated by design choices. I think that the early jeep motors were what is called "shunt wound," which means that the fields are in parallel with the armature. If that's the case, the increased voltage will cause more current to pass through the field coils, which makes more magnetic field, which means that the armature doesn't have to turn as fast to reach equilibrium. Still, the equilibrium point may be at too high an RPM, and cause the armature to fail. The strength of the field is proportional to the current flowing through the coil, and the number of turns of wire in it. A field wound for 6 volts may not have sufficient number of turns to produce the necessary magnetic flux required to keep the armature RPM at a safe level, even with the increased voltage.
When I converted my jeep over to 12 volts, I took the starter motor down to a good "automotive electric shop" and had it completely gone through (new bearings, brushes, turn the commutator, etc.). When they had it apart, I had them rewind the fields so that they produce the proper magnetic field at 12 volts that will keep the unloaded RPM within safe limits. It will not keep the armature from overheating if I crank for too long, but it will keep it from flying apart if the bendix doesn't catch. They charged me $35 extra for rewinding the fields. I feel it was well worth it.
EMERGENCY BRAKE - RATCHET
QUESTION: Where can I get the ratchet mechanism for my emergency brake?
ANSWER: It is available thru Beachwood Canvas. There are two holes for a #10 size bolt equally spaced from the brake lever hole on the dash for attachment.
On my '46 2A, the support arm itself was welded to the backside of the dash. On mine it was snapped off and I had to make a whole new contraption.
According to one parts dealer, the support arm for the ratchet cannot be removed and re-installed. I understand the *ratchet itself* can be puchased through Beachwood Canvass. Unless, you are missing a smaller piece [the actual ratchet].
Mine was snapped off [fatigued back and forth maybe] to make room for an in-dash radio. I had to create one.
I used wood for the missing support bracket, as I do not have access to cutting and welding gear. I used a 2" wide, 1/2" thick wood strip. Cut a "U" shape in one end that would fit snug into the concave ebrake area on the backside of the dash. This wood strip then was fitted with a steel tube/pipe a shade bigger than the ebrake handle, making a sleeve for the handle. I then cut a notch in the sleeve, then put a pull-pin... [similar to the pin on a fire extingisher]. This acts like the ratchet as the handle has action against it when pulled. I then mounted the firewall end of the wood strip to the firewall. It is out of sight and works like a charm.
Emergency brake repair:
How my ebrake setup looked when I got it: [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKBAD.jpg] No bracket, no ratchet, no handle. [Backside pic].
See my new handle, hanging through the hole, [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKBAD2.jpg]. No bracket, no ratchet.
Created dash-to-firewall ratcheting bracket for ebrake system. [Homemade] [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\BAYDASH.JPG] See it through radio hole.
See the new homemade ebrake bracket [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\BAYDASH.JPG] attached to firewall.
See new [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKNEW2.JPG] homemade ebrake ratcheting bracket at ebrake hole. Ratchet is a mounted spring pin over a slotted pipe.
See what an [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKNEW2.JPG] original ratcheting ebrake looks like.
See how an [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKORG1.JPG] original bracket fits to firewall.
Installed [public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\ebrknew.jpg] emerg brake handle and cable to public_html\images\CJ2A-FAQ\EBRKCASE.JPG] housing. [10/15/98, $20 Handle, $35 cable, Willys Minn]
------------------------------------
EMERGENCY BRAKE - BUYING A CABLE
QUESION: Does any one know where to find a replacement emergency brake cable? This is for a '62 CJ5? I could probably fabricate one, but because it was completely missing when I bought my CJ, I really don't know where to start. I have the dash/firewall bracket and ratcheting handle, but no cable.
ANSWER: I got mine, new and nice, here for $35 dollars...
Willys-Minneapolis
Gary or Louie
651-460-8888
Farmington, MN
ENGINE - GENERAL OVERVIEW OF THE L-134
QUESTION: Where can I read an excellent overview of my L-134 engine?
ANSWER: Off-Road.com has an excellent page on this at...
---------------------------
ENGINE - F HEAD IN PLACE OF AN L HEAD
QUESTION: I've been told that the F head block can be used in place of the L head with some mods. Is this true?
ANSWER 1: The F-head is a different animal than the L-head. By most accounts the F-head won't fit in a low-hood flat fender without cutting a hole in the hood or putting on a body lift.
ANSWER 2: Using a carburetor from an early Ford Falcon (144cid engine) will provide clearance for the hood to close without cutting a hole in it. A low profile air cleaner is required though.
---------------------------
ENGINE - HORSEHAIR AROUND RADIATOR
QUESTION: Where can I get replacement "horsehair" for around my radiator?
ANSWER: Matching material is not available from any source. I searched exhaustively during my restoration and came up with nothing. Beachwood Canvas sells some material that works and is the right color but isn't even close to the original appearance.
-------------------------
ENGINE - GETTING THE HEAD OFF
QUESTION: How do I get the head off my L-134?
ANSWER: Not sure on an L-head, but on an F-head there is a bolt under where the carb mounts which is the last (hidden head bolt) I couldn't figure out why the head on mine wouldn't come off until I noticed it.
I had to replace a couple head gaskets on my flathead when I had it in my jeep. You just have to pry on it with a pry bar or e screwdriver. They come off hard the first time get easier after that especially after the 2nd or 3rd. I finally figured out my prolem, why I was blowing head gaskets. When you go to put the studs back in make sure you put all of the studs in without nuts on them or do it even better way if you have the money and replace all of the studs and nuts. The problem I was having was that some of the nuts were frozen on the studs and the stud would bottom out in its threaded hole and the nut wouldn't go any further because it was frozen thus giving a false torque. What I did because I was in school and short on money is found the problem studs and replaced them with grade 8 bolts of the proper length and never had any problems after that.
-------------------------
ENGINE - PAINT
QUESTION 1: What was the color of the engine and engine parts on the early jps?
ANSWER 1: The chassis, engine, air cleaner were all glossy black. They were not the flat black (or satin black) that other manufacturer's used. [Todd Paisley CJML]
QUESTION 2: Did this continue throught the fiftys with all jeeps (L and F head) or was it model specific i.e. CJ2A? (I've got a '54 3B and was just wondering).
ANSWER 2: I don't have any authoritative information on original undercarriage and engine parts paint on CJ-3B's, but I haven't seen much that would contradict the theory that it was generally glossy black. [Derek Redmond - CJML]
-------------------------
ENGINE - DEALERSHIP ADDED POWER
QUESTION: Does anyone know some slight modifications that may have been done at the dealership for more power?
ANSWER: The factory offered a high compression (7.0 vs. 6.4) cylinder head for high altitudes. That option could have been installed either at the factory or by a dealer. I don't know the horsepower boost offhand, nor how much to shave off a standard head to obtain the 7.0 compression ratio.
It's quite easy to calculate how much the head has to be shaved of or the block decked. Though caution has to taken to valve/head clearance. There are a lot of ways to check that to before working with the head. I do not know the clearence distance so.... Some percents of horsepower can be achived by smoothing the manifold intake ways and same thing in the block. Had been a lot more easy if you had modern engine with valves-in the head to work on.
The effect of the bored-out block is negligible, I can assure you. With the first rebuild of my L-head- it was sent out to one of those big engine rebuilders- came back with a tag on it, "Power-Pac". I didn't realize the implications until I tore into it, years later: .062" oversize (.022 over suggested max.). This last go around, I re-sleeved back to standard. And I have to tell you, *I* don't notice any difference.
I agree that the effect of any overbore would be negligible, if it was even noticeable. But what I did say is true. That it is the *easiest and safest* way to increase compression. Period. No representations that it would result in any real World or even theoretical power gains.
One more interesting (to me, anyway) thing is that an excessive overbore like yours probably decreased your power, rather than increased it. The weak link in any overbore scenario is the "no man's land" between cylinders where, in essence, twice the amount of material is being removed (the amount of the overbore on each side of that usually narrow to start with area).
Even though you can get nice, neat round holes and you can get the pistons to seal statically, once the block is up to operating temperature and the pistons are moving at whatever speed 4000 or 5000 rpm translates into, the thin wall between cylinders would deflect to the point where the rings couldn't seal the compression into the combustion chambers because the cylinders were no longer round.
A 283 overbored .060 (292) would always make more power than the same block overbored .125 (301). So we always had a surprise for the folks who engineered by the motto: "if some is good, more is better and too much must be just enough" . Especially considering you had to carry a certain weight for each inch of displacement.
There are also other ways to lose power by increasing your compression depending on how you do it. One way would be to dome the piston to the point where the sparkplug would ignite only the fuel on it's side of the mountainous dome and not propagate across to the other side, leaving that amount of fuel unburned and having contributed nothing to power. Another would be to increase the compression to the point where you had to back the ignition timing off to prevent detonation with the available fuel.
Even the aforementioned smoothing and polishing might cause a loss in power. Some turbulence in the intake charge is necessary to keep the fuel molecules suspended in the air intake. If none is present the heavier (than air) fuel has a tendency to fall out of the air stream and pool or puddle in low areas in the intake runners.
Matching intake manifolds to heads, once thought to be the greatest advance since sliced bread, can be overdone as it has been know for a long time now that appropriate mismatching is desirable, even necessary to create a "reversion dam" to prevent the intake charge from being pushed back out by exhaust gases in engines with long overlap cams.
Jeff Polidoro - CJML
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ENGINE - MAKING THE CRANK LIGHTER
QUESTION: By lightening the crank, wouldn' t it also result in a reciprocal loss, if minimal, of low end torque?
ANSWER: No, torque is a function of the length of the moment arm, in this case the stroke of the engine, not the weight of the moment arm. Lighter is always better, whether it's crank, pistons, valves, block, you name it. The only possible exception might be the mass of the flywheel. There are 2 opinions but I favor the lighter ones and the resulting responsiveness.
Jeff Polidoro - CJML
-------------------------
ENGINE - PRE-LUBRICATING
QESTION: My engine has been rebuilt, what can I do to pre-lubricate it prior to
starting it?
ANSWER I appreciate not every owner will have a
spare oil pump but for those who do have access to one here is a tip.
Temporarily install an oil pump that has had the
teeth machined [or filed] off the driven gear. Removing the teeth will allow the
pump to spin when driven by an electric drill via a shaft inserted in the
distributor hole. The shaft can be gutted from an old distributor or made from
metal bar simulating the oil pump drive tang. It doesn't even have to be a good
condition oil pump as we are not concerned about maintaining flow/pressure once
the engine is warmed up and revving its heart out. Once the teeth are
removed it doesn't matter if it is a 1933 or 1960 oil pump. Just make sure it is
clean inside and out with no debris likely to be dislodged. Use an old gasket or
make a temp one from thick paper and bolt the old pump up. If worried about a
slight oil leak just wrap a rag around the pump, it is a temporary installation
after all. Works a treat for engines that have been sitting a long time since
rebuild or since the last startup.
Paint this priming pump a distinctive colour and
mark it so it can not be mistaken for a proper oil pump when bolted to the
block.
This is the most effective method of priming oil
into the engine through the oil passages it is meant to flow through. It can
also be used to verify flow into the bypass oil filter, oil out of the timing
gear jet [with timing cover removed], flow past each main bearing and rod cap
[with the sump removed and oil fed to pump via hose dipped in oil bottle, flow
to valve gear of F134/161 as well as to verify the oil gauge or idiot light
works.
L134 Ted - WT
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ENGINE - SYNTHETIC LUBES
QUESTION: Does anyone have knowledge or opinion on Slick 50 and some of these other oil additives I am thinkin' about putting one or another in my 2A to enhance engine life?
ANSWER 1: [From various areas of opinion]: One of the best products I've used. Highly recommended.
ANSWER 2: My opinion, based upon nothing, is that the best thing you can do is run a quality oil and changed at reasonable intervals. The definition of 'quality oil' and 'reasonable intervals' are left to the reader. Everything that I've seen suggests that it is almost impossible to execute a well designed experiment to determine what these are given the variability and time involved. Dyno juice has been run for years and there's plenty of older rigs with well over 100k on them. My Civic (see the .sig below) has been completely abused all it's life (I run Castrol GTX and change it when I get around to it) and continues to run very well. There are some compelling reasons to run synthetics, however you can change to oil twice as often for the money with petrol oil.
As for the additives, et al. My basic take is that anyone who uses marketing techniques composed of outrageous 'get quick rich' type claims and sensational video footage in the auto part super stores are looking for suckers. If their results are that night-and-day of a difference I'd fully expect Castrol, Mobile, etc to be on board not to mention GM, Ford, BMW, Mercedes, adnosium. Believing that to not be the case I've concluded that it's a smoke screen. It probably won't hurt but I'd be absolutely blown away if you could convince me that you've found it to be of any help.
My motorcycle has one known flaw in that the top end oiling is a bit weak and thus the oil thread has been beaten into the ground on that mail list. We've even a few petroleum chemists. Being a high performance engine I run synthetics and change the oil frequently, the best technique I know. All that being said, there are differences in oil and some of the learned members of that list do use a particular zinc based (I think) additive to help the oil designed for cars function better in the bike (where the engine and tranny use the same oil) instead of paying through the nose $5+ a quart for Honda Motorcycle oil.
In short: spend the money on another filter and change your oil more often.
ANSWER 3: Ford, GM, BMW, Castrol, etc., etc., (my opinion) are not going to jump on the band wagon for a great new product that last hundreds of thousands of miles and makes your engine last forever. They WANT you to buy products and parts FREQUENTLY. That's big money. Other than that I think you hit it on the head. I've used additives and synthetics and could tell no difference, except in the wallet.
ANSWER 4: The good one I heard was about STP. A mechanic I worked with told me that he had seen what it did: ran down the side of the filler tube, the pan, and lay in a puddle in the bottom.
ANSWER 5: I can't tell you about Slick 50 additives but, for what it's worth, I am not a believer in the additives. I do however, believe in the virtues of synthetic oil. I use it almost exclusively in all my IC engines. One warning though. If your engine already uses oil, don't switch to synthetics. Also, you can't break an engine in with synthetic oil. My Ford (sorry, I got a good deal) F 150 is living proof after 120,000 and it still does not use any oil to speak of.
ANSWER 6: Slick 50. No way it's going to increase your power. So folks swear by it, others say it's a waste of money. I've put it my Geo Metro and after 120,000 miles it's still running fine. Due to Slick 50? Dunno.
Want more horsepower? JC Whitney has a Solex replacement carb. Although I hesitate to say it will give you more HP, it can make for smoother running and starting. You can throw on a turbocharger (from a Ford 2.3L) but you must modify your exhaust manifold. The L-head problem is that it's a poor breather. Of course you could always throw in a V-6.
ANSWER 7: My opinion is that I would not use these additives if I do not know the history of the engine. Oil 50 or so years ago was poor and had little if any detergents in it. Over the years the grades of oil have improved greatly. What I am trying to say I would not use these because of their detergents, years ago there may had been deposits of dirt left in there and if you use modern oil with the best cleaning power you could break some of the deposits loose and could block up oil passages thus leading to premature engine failure by under lubrication. This is especially true about synthetic oils. If you know the history of the engine and it has been rebuilt then by all means use these additives if you feel so incline.
ANSWER 8: Save your money and time and stick to the important stuff like regular oil & filter changes, chassis lube, coolant and brake fluid flush, keeping trans, xfer, and knuckle lube topped off. And you should oil the wick on the distributor and keep some oil in the bottom of the air cleaner. If you really want your flathead to last forever you can drop the oil pan every year and wipe out the mud with a rag.
Plenty of work to do to keep a 2a in top shape without having to run voodoo chemicals through it.
ANSWER 9: I've used Tufoil in my old cars for years. It really seems to make things smoother and quieter. Added with each ol change. avail at auto parts store or call Fluoramics 800-922-0075
ANSWER 10: I'm not sure about Slick 50, but if you want the same thing much cheaper (ten bucks) use the Fram Double Duty that has the teflon in it. As for oil, when I lived up by the artic circle I left a bottle of Penzoil 10-30 and a bottle of Mobil 1, 5-50 out overnight. In the morning with temperature at around 50 below, the Penzoil was a solid block, but the Mobil 1 poured with no problem. Those of us that ran synthetics in our ATV's were the only ones running when the weather really got cold. My 85 Nissan with 114K miles burns no oil ever. I started using Mobil 1 in it after about 12K miles. I run nothing but Mobile 1 in my six autos ranging from 1947 to 1997, the four banger in my rice rocket to the fuel injected 460 in my motor home. It stays "thicker" when it's hot and "thinner" when it's cold. Up here they even sell Mobil 1, 0 weight.
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ENGINE - L HEAD GOES TO AN F HEAD
QUESTION: What was the advantage of the F Head over the L Head? Why did they change engines on the 3B?
ANSWER: Horsepower. Raw, unadulterated, snap-your-head-back horsepower. A screamin' 72 of 'em. Primarily at higher RPM. The F-head design allows the cylinders to fill more rapidly with fuel-air mixture which improves the top end.
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ENGINE - STARTER BUSHING
QUESTION: How can I remove and replace my starter bushing [in the bell housing]?
ANSWER: There are several ways to skin the same cat. I know two, Snap On makes a 14 piece puller set, basically it is a slide hammer. It has a attachment that will fit inside bushing and tighten against the sides. you then just slide hammer. The other is to twist a bolt or easy-out into bushing. hold the bolt with pliers then tap bushing out with hammer. It is a tight fit may take some time. Oh yeah, if the bushing has no back, when the bolt is screwed all the way and begins to strike bellhousing, the bushing will be forced out.
It's really easy to get out. Sometimes there is a hole behind it (in the bell housing), in which case you can push it out using a bronze drift. If there's no hole you can extract it by using a small sliding hammer or bush extractor. Once it is out you then have the OD measurement and the shaft on the starter will give you the ID measurement. Putting it in: A good auto sparky will either find you the correct bronze bush or he will turn one up for you. Be sure that you soak the bronze bush for 24 hours in about 30 grade oil, then carefully reinsert it using a bronze drift. Now slide your starter in. If your earthing is good, your starter is good and the new bush doesn't allow any sideways "lash", the little girl will start right up.
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[Editor's note: There is a disagreement on the following two questions/answers]
ENGINE - LUBRICATION AT LOW IDLE
QUESTION: Do these little jeep engines lack oil when they idle.
ANSWER: No. There is documented evidence of Jeep engines being used as stationary engines in power plants, as saw mill motors, to drive household generators (thousands of them in the Australian Outback cattle stations), boat motors and I could go on and on. *Most * of these engines spend countless hours idling. Furthermore, the difference between idling pressure and running pressure (in normal use - not climbing mountains or getting over sand dunes) is not very great. Hydraulic mechanics tells any fool that. If you would like to run Taz for long periods at idle - do so. The only thing that may be better for him is to turn the idle screw up so he idles at about 800rpm. Not for the oil flow but for good coolant flow and correct engine temp control by ensuring that the coolant flows and the fan blows.
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ENGINE - MOUNTING A SPIN-ON OIL FILTER
QUESTION: Why might I consider mounting a spin-on oil filter in place of my stock filter?
ANSWER: The original oil filter will starve the main bearing and first rod bearing at idle will the oil pressure drops low. I have designed a system that uses a spin on filter and a flow control valve to regulate the flow at idle. [Answer in progress 01-Feb-99]
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ENGINE - CANISTER VS MODERN OIL FILTER
QUESTION: Is my stock canister oil filter sufficient?
ANSWER: I've used (and continue to use) canister type oil filters in some of the dustiest and sandiest country you'll ever wish to see. Never had a problem. I drive (and escort) MB's, GPW's, CJ2A's, CJ3B's over hot, arid and remote country, in trips that can take the convoy up to three weeks and cover 5000 miles. Never a problem. I've used a roll of toilet paper as a filter when I've been stuck without the cartridge. Never a problem. I only change the oil every 2500 miles in that type of driving and in normal driving I change oil at about 5000 miles. Never burnt a bearing or cooked a crankshaft. Provided the oil galleries are clean and the oil is a good product, the physics of hydraulic mechanics will tell you that the oil pressure will be constant throughout the whole flow area. As you probably know, the canister system was used in numerous vehicles (Chrysler, GM, and trucks) way up to the end of the 60's. Never heard of a starvation problem. Early Landcruisers (with the copy of the Chev 6 engine in them). I'm talking about FJ40's and earlier, had canister oil filters. No problems that I heard of. Upon reflection, I do know of someone who had an oil feed problem (now that I recall) but he was stupid and had used Silastic as a gasket sealer and the stuff was stuck in the galleries. But that shouldn't count.
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ENGINE - ROD BEARING / SPRAY NOZZLE / OIL PRESSURE
QUESTION: How can low oil pressure effect bearings?
ANSWER: The low oil pressure situation is dependant on two major things: 1) How old the engine bearing and oil pump are. The older, the lower the pressure the pump will produce at idle. At idle the oil going to the front main bearing is siphoned off to the oil filter, the front rod bearing, and the timing gear spray nozzle. 2) If the spray nozzle to the timing gear is the larger of two sizes you are risking burning the rod bearing. I don't remember the diameter or the hole in the spray nozzle but it is listed in the Willys repair manual that we have. It says in the book that if the front rod bearing is burning up the replace the spray nozzle with the smaller diameter.
The Willys place I purchase parts from said that they remove the original filters and change the oil when it gets cloudy looking to prevent a chance of burning the rod bearing.
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ENGINE - HANDCRANK
QUESTION 1: I heard the 2A had an option handcrank. Is that true?
ANSWER 1: It was a two piece handle and shaft with adapter on the crankshaft end... Do you have the special nut on the end of your crankshaft ? You know what it looks like.... Now for the other item I know .. Continental made the engines for the MB, AND Allis Chalmers tractors back in those days... I am told that an Old Tractor graveyard that has Allis Chalmers tractors will probably have the crank and Nut that goes on the crank shaft of the engine.... check it out.
QUESTION 2: Does anyone know of a good source for hand crank starters and/or other nifty original options for CJ-2As.
ANSWER 2: [Answer in progress 01-Feb-99]
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ENGINE - MOTOR STALL, HIGH OIL PRESSURE
QUESTION: My motor stalled after running rough. The oil pressure was high and when I checked the dipstick, it was full of crud. What could this mean?
My suggestions: After it sits for a while (measured in hours) the oil and water emulsion should separate. When you drain the oil, you should get both water and oil out. Pulling the head is relatively easy on an old Jeep (as opposed to the modern engines I sometimes find myself struggling with). A new head gasket is about $15 - $20 (as opposed to the complete gasket set I am awaiting from NAPA for an Isuzu Trooper 4 cyl Diesel for $185!).
This will be OK as long as the head studs don't break off. I remember trying to take the flat head off of my L-134. I broke 4 of the studs.
Soak the nuts good and brush off any dirt and grime from the threads. If you do break some, use a stud puller after you gert the head off. I was able to remove 3 of my broken studs without drilling. If you are going to wait for any length of time to pull the head, remove the spark plugs and poor a sizable amount of oil down each cylinder. This is much harder to do on a flat head because the spark plug does not sit directly over the cylender. Cover the top of the engine with an old towel, leave the plugs out and crank the engine over a few times by hand. This will make for an oily rag but it should help keep any water from rusting up the cylinders.
My first attempt would be to confirm that it is just water in the oil, not any metal flakes; then pull the head to see if that is the source of the water (pray that it is, 'cause the other possibility is a cracked block); then put on a new headgasket and replace the head; fill it with cheap oil and start it up. This whole fix shouldn't take more than two or three hours. It will either run OK (in which case you are back on the road), or other problems will become evident.
Don't run the engine more than a few minutes with the cheap oil. Not that running on cheap oil is a problem bu,t you need to change it out to remove the water and "mud" from the system. I have seen it take 2 oil changes to get that junk out of an engine. Even them you will traces of the "mud" around the dip stick for a few weeks.
If you are in the mood to know more, pull the oil pan an check the rod and crank bearings by dropping one cap at a time. They would be the most likely place to find damage due to oil starvation. If they look damaged, you can change the bearings from underneath without pulling engine. You could still be back on the road with a day two of work and less than $100.
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ENGINE - L-134 SOLD FOR OTHER USES
QUESTION: I had heard this before: that 134 L-heads had been sold to be used on various pieces of field equipment; pumps, generators, etc. Now, a notice on a BB discussion about their use on welders, has me wondering. I suppose that it would have been impossible for the Willys plant to track which engines were sold as replacements in a vehicle and which weren't - unless the orders were sizable, and their destinations known. Are any of these suitable for a non-original engine jeep restoration job? Do they have the "Willys"-, or some other head? Were they taken right off the line, with the same sequential serial numbers? In short, what is known about them? [Cary Reed - CJML]
ANSWER:
[Coming]
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ENGINE - L-134 PISTONS, CAST VS FORGED
QUESTION: I am rebuilding an L-134. Should I go with cast or forged pistons? Prices?
ANSWER: The cast pistons will work fine as long as you keep it timed correctly and don't try to hot rod it. I've never seen a cast piston break under ordinary driving conditions.
There is really no need to run the more expensive forged pistons in a stock motor, and maybe some reasons not to. The forged pistons are stronger and can put up with a little more detonation and are great for a high horsepower rebuild. As for a stock engine, the installation of forged pistons requires the holes to be bored out a little larger than they would be for cast pistons (forged pistons expand more) this causes more piston slap on cold startups and requires a little more care on your part to warm engine up completely before hot rodding it. Both styles will work well, just consider how you will be using your engine and keep costs in mind.
Call Carl Walck's Four Wheel Drive. 610-852-3110. Great prices and shipping time. My price list from him has .020 F-134 pistons at $26.31. Ring set is $29.46.
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ENGINE - BROKEN STUD
QUESTION: How can I remove a broken stud [in the engine]?
ANSWER: I broke off an exhaust manifold stud leaving a piece in the block. It was the rear stud, about 1" from the firewall. I drilled a hole in it and used a screw extractor. BAD RESULTS! It broke also, leaving tool steel in the hole. About $75 worth of carbide drill bits later, I inserted a helicoil and a new stud.
I would recommend just drilling the stud out and inserting the helicoil, skipping the screw extractor and carbide bits. I hope your experience is more pleasant (and cheaper).
The thing that I hope everyone out there learned from this is that screw extractors don't.
If you are lucky enough to be the one that broke off the stud, then you should have some idea about how much torque was required to do it. If you were really leaning on it, or it was actually getting TIGHTER as you unscrewed, keep that in mind as you reach for the screw