After disassembling the carb, I wire brush each part to remove any loose debris, organize all parts. Then place the parts in the basket and dip in carb cleaner. I got my carb cleaner from NAPA it was about $15. Normally 20 min to 30 minutes is all that is required to dissolve the crud. As directed on the can rinse the part off with water. I then blow the part dry with compressed air.
When the parts are dry, I use wire brushes to dislodge any buildup that remains and it's back to the dip tank for a final cleaning. Remember this is a carburetor and cleanliness is a must!
Click on pictures for a larger version.
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Visually inspect all parts for wear, debris and breakage. Throttle shaft and choke shaft will probably have 'some' shaft play in them. The proper thing would be to remove the throttle and/or choke plate(s) and have bushings installed. For most of us this is out of our league and replacement of the carburetor is the best option. Unless the shaft play is obviously excessive or you have the ability to install bushings yourself, I wouldn't consider fixing the shaft play. If shaft play is required to be fixed then I suggest calling The Carburetor Shop for an estimate on repair.
I use a number drill set to check for clean jets. These drills have never seen a drill chuck as I use the shank size to check the orifice, The FSM defines the orifice sizes. I use compressed air and the shank end of the drill. Blow air through and slide the drill through. Always start with a drill 1 or 2 sizes smaller and work your way up to be sure you don't damage the orifice. NEVER FORCE the drill shank through the orifice. If a drill a couple sizes smaller won't slide through or air won't go through, it's back to the solvent tank for a while. If you some how break a drill off in a jet, replace the jet!
Once all parts are clean and ready for reinstallation, then and ONLY then start reassembly.
Visitors since January 26, 2004
Copyright Richard N. Meagley Sr.
Last revised:
May 25, 2007.